


| Easing into the Netherlands with pickled herring and a polite red-light district |
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I’m under the towering church spire in the tidy Dutch market town of Haarlem, tempted to eat a pickled herring. The sign atop the mobile van reads: “Jos Haring — Gezond en Lekkerrr” (healthy and deeeeeelicious). I order by pointing and ask, “Gezond?” Jos hands me what looks more like bait than lunch, and says, “En lekkerrr.
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